Everyone has a knitted garment dear to the heart that can no longer be worn: lint. And so it lies in the closet, throwing it away is a pity, wearing it is a pity for yourself. It is possible, of course, to transfer it into the category of “trimmings” or send it to spend the rest of its life at the cottage, but you can try to resuscitate it with a machine to remove the lint.
Names a lot – the essence of one
Mini-cleaner, hair care machine, device for cutting removing lint, fabric trimmer – all these are different names for the same device, just manufacturers call it each in their own way.
The blender usually runs on one or two “finger” batteries, mains or built-in rechargeable battery. Inside, it has a motor that sets in motion the net-covered steel blades: the lint that gets under the net is cut off by rotating sharp knives.
Most devices have a removable compartment for the collection of clippings. It is good, if the set includes a brush to clean the device.
Question Price
In a popular TV-shop the simplest Chinese blender is advertised as a kind of a miracle, and it sells for a lot of money.
In fact, it’s one of the simplest and cheapest household devices not even a device ! , which price at conscientious sellers ranges from 80 to 400-500 Dollars.
Our task – to analyze whether our contestants are bona fide manufacturers, how their machines work, and to choose the best in the combination of price and quality.
It should be noted that on the market there are more complicated domestic models with built-in batteries, charger, charging indicator, nozzle to protect the fabric from close contact with the device .
This makes the machine more expensive for example, domestic models Berdsk EM.T-002A for 1200 Dollars., MIG 6002A, MIG 6001A for 550 Dollars. , but eliminates the need to constantly buy batteries and guarantees a more gentle operation.
In addition, the improved models may have additional features, such as adjusting the length of the cut hairs MIG 6001A . This feature prevents things from spoiling during processing, not allowing the blades to get close to the fabric especially relevant for cleaning upholstery .
Three, three, three – there will be a hole?
Surgery to remove the lint is akin to shaving, but when we shave the hair, it grows back, which can’t be said about the lint in your favorite sweater.
Therefore, over time, the tissue is thinning, the product “bald”, and, of course, the moment of parting with a thing can not be delayed forever: after several procedures, the material will not be as beautiful as before. But for the first time there is also a danger of making a hole in the thing, pushing it too hard or holding it in one place for too long.
In addition, we must ensure that the fabric is straightened. Maybe you should start by practicing on an old, unwanted item which we also did in our testing process .
Where do lint come from, or pure half-wool
The delicate, soft nap of knitwear is the soil for the formation of lint. Alas, the more delicate it is, the more likely their growth. And yet much depends on the composition of the material.
According to experts, the most resistant to lint is knitwear, in which the natural material is 90-95%, and the rest – additives in the form of elastane, spandex, Lycra, polyester, or other synthetic material except acrylic , which is added in order for the material and products made of it do not lose their shape and appearance.
One of the most “rolling” materials is acrylic. Things made of it are always quickly covered with lint, if it prevails in the composition of the product – also. Likes to roll up the mix of wool and acrylic, but the mixture of acrylic and cotton is more resistant to attack.
The most problematic natural materials are mohair and angora. But most often all the troubles are due to poor workmanship, low-quality raw materials or outright fakes: real angora and high-quality woolen garments can be worn for many years without any problems.
As tested?
We proceeded from the fact that the manufacturers do not specify what kind of fabric is better to clean a particular device, and “shaved” a few kinds of knitwear with each machine to see their capabilities for different material.
The same for all devices were procedures with a pure-wool thin turtleneck, a fleece jacket made of 100% polyester in the photo – red and a T-shirt made of 70% synthetic and 30% cotton in the photo – pink .
We made each appliance to work with very large calico over 3 mm in diameter to assess whether the blades are not jammed and whether the large calico passes through the gauze of the machine.
We estimate the convenience of the device: how easy is it to install batteries, how easy is it to remove and insert a container, how do the buttons work?.
Conclusions
Tested with a thin turtleneck sweater, a thick fleece sweater and a blended jersey, all devices passed the test with flying colors.
The bigger machines with big holes in the net Mikma, Air Comfort XJ-350 , with stronger motors and bigger working surface of the blades cope with coarse lint better.
A common problem with participants is tightly removable containers or hard-to-open battery compartments. Models that work only with batteries Lasko, Maxwell are more mobile and compact, but they cope worse with large lint, and devices that work from the network Mikma bind the user to the socket.
What will help, except a typewriter??
– A disposable razor it shouldn’t have a moisturizing gel strip on it or a regular blade inserted into a safety razor. In principle, some people manage to get along with it, but there are also reviews on the Internet forums about failures and ruined things.
– The back side of a dish sponge: it can be used to gently comb out lint, but this method is suitable only for old and neglected lint.
– Dry cleaning is expensive and not always a good idea.
– Your own hands – tiring, spoils your posture and eyesight. True, this is often the only way to put a hand-knitted item in order. Not suitable for heavy knitting – there is a risk of making a hole.
– Duct tape, duct tape. You glue, rr-r-r, and that’s it. Suitable for localized lint places: near pockets, underarms, and on the shoulder from carrying a bag . Special “sticky” rollers are also suitable.
– Iron. After washing, things need to be ironed at a low temperature not on the underside, as you understand . This contributes to less lint formation.
If you like lint, do it this way:
Choose things at the nearest flea market like “Cherkizon”, prefer acrylic and cheap synthetics. Don’t look at the quality – just be inexpensive and match the tone of your purse and lipstick.
Wash knitwear in conjunction with a lot of other, rougher things: and who invented the special programs for washing delicate things and wool?
Never use the newfangled liquid laundry detergent with balsam: it will still coat and protect every thread!
Always wash knitwear at 60 degrees, and even better – boil it. Oh, no, then immediately thing to throw out, and the lint will not dye!
When wringing ruthlessly wring out both wool and jersey: you don’t go to the fitness and gym for nothing!
If knitwear and wool are wrung out by the washing machine, let it do it in accordance with spin class A and it pays back the money invested in it!
Never dry knitwear as it should be – straightened out and spread out on a horizontal surface!
Is the calico removal machine test suitable for all types of sweaters, including delicate or fine knit ones?