I | NIKON MASTER CLASS. Shooting fireworks

If you’ve been dreaming of adding fireworks shots to your portfolio, this new Nikon Masterclass is sure to help you. Photography of fireworks is not difficult, if you know certain rules and prerequisites for getting quality pictures, as in any other genre. See how to capture this fireworks extravaganza in one of Nikon’s new Masterclasses with photographers. Tatiana Tarasova, Dmitry Burlak, Kristina Kurashova and Pavel Miroshkin share their secrets.

Author: Tatiana Tarasova

Camera: Nikon D7000

Lens: AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3G ED VR

Aperture: f/16

Shutter speed: 6

ISO: 100

Focal length: 32 mm

Tripod and remote control

Fireworks should be shot with a slow shutter speed. Only in this case you can get those beautiful long lines that make up the fireworks display and we see them when we watch them. Moreover, the long exposure will allow you to capture the blooming of several buds instead of just one. You can even capture in one shot multiple salvos if there aren’t too many pauses between them. So without a tripod there is no way.

Camera: Nikon D7000

Lens: AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3G ED VR

Aperture: f/16

Shutter speed: 5

ISO: 100

Focal length: 26 mm

Remote control to avoid shake. You don’t want to use the shutter delay on your camera to shoot fireworks, or you might miss the most beautiful moment. Another bonus of using the remote control is the possibility to set the shutter speed in real time depending on the pattern and the duration of the salvo shots.

Shooting point

The most important thing for shooting fireworks, in my opinion, is the choice of shooting point. You have to think about it beforehand. The most beautiful fireworks will look dull in the picture if there is nothing else in the frame except for it. A good angle is very important. The frame needs the architectural gems of the city, a river or any body of water in which the fireworks or something in the foreground will be reflected. You can get a very good result when you shoot from a high and distant point, when you can use the tv to include the panorama of the city with its most prominent sights in a composition with fireworks.

Camera: Nikon D7000

Lens: AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3G ED VR

Aperture: f/16

Shutter speed: 6

ISO: 100

Focal length: 68 mm

It won’t hurt a photographer to be able to predict the weather. When choosing a point to shoot, it is advisable to predict the wind direction, because if the wind blows away from the place where the fireworks are shot, the fireworks themselves will not be clearly visible behind the thick smoke, and in wet weather the fireworks will be completely obscured by smoke and fog.

Camera: Nikon D750

Lens: AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR

Aperture: f/16

Shutter speed: 5

ISO: 100

Focal length: 28 mm

An example of a firework that got completely hidden in the smoke and fog.

And it is very important to get to the point of shooting beforehand, simply speaking, to take position in order not to get behind the viewers. We need the front row in the parterre to take the shot.

Separate mention should be made of the shooting of such global celebrations as the “Scarlet Sails” holiday for graduates in St. Petersburg. All the most advantageous shooting points become unavailable, because this territory is given only to graduates. And in order to get the best angle, you need to get the resolution. And even if you are the lucky winner of the invitation card, you have to be there no later than 19:00, despite the fact that the light and pyrotechnical show on the Neva River starts at 00:40. Otherwise you’ll only be able to photograph rivers of people and crowded banks of people.

Focal length and choice of lenses

This is the most important thing for us, besides deciding on the point of view for the shootings. The light and pyrotechnic show is unpredictable, even if you’ve shot fireworks in the same place and on the same holiday more than once. That’s why prime lenses won’t work for us in this case. Imagine the variation of the Scarlet Sails festival I already mentioned:

High and wide half-sky fireworks at some distance from you FR: 28-35mm

Camera: Nikon D750

Lens: AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR

Aperture: f/14

Shutter speed: 2.5

ISO: 100

Focal length: 28 mm

An example of a firework that happened to be very close, which had to be shot at ffl: 16mm

Camera: Nikon D750

Lens: AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR

Aperture: f/14

Shutter speed: 5

ISO: 200

Focal length: 28mm

Pyrotechnical fountains and fireworks, smaller but no less interesting than the fireworks FFR: 70-80mm

Camera: Nikon D750

Lens: AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR

Aperture: f/14

Shutter speed: 2.5

ISO: 100

Focal length: 72mm

The exit and all the way of a romantic sailing ship with scarlet sails FD: 16-300mm :

Camera: Nikon D750

Lens: AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR

Aperture: f/5.3

Shutter speed: 1/100

ISO: 1600

Focal length: 98mm

Lenses

And all this happens very quickly, just have time to change the focal length and direction of the camera on the tripod. And considering that the light is changing, and a sailboat is a fast moving object, you have to change the exposure settings quickly. So an indispensable kit, in my opinion, is two universal lenses for a full-frame sensor:

– AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR

– AF-S NIKKOR 16-35mm f/4G ED VR

Basic camera settings

I always shoot in “raw” format NEF , which has the most photo information in the file. And also in the wide color space Adobe RGB. And when shooting fireworks, I think this is a must. Fireworks and light shows are pretty extreme, especially if you are unlucky with the weather. I like to set the white balance to AUTO in winter and to color temperature ~9000K in summer, white night and sunset.

You should only use manual mode and no flash. I prefer automatic spot focusing. Autofocus gives the photographer the mobility needed for fireworks and the freedom of the frame and angles, and Nikon does not miss the focus.

Exposure – shutter speed, aperture, sensitivity ISO

The main parameter when shooting fireworks shows is the shutter speed. The fireworks are moving and the shutter speed needs a slow shutter speed to show the movement. The other settings adjust to the first one.

Depending on time of year, weather and natural light, I usually set the shutter speed from 2.5 to 6 sec. Aperture: f/8 – f/16. Since you have to keep the balance between sharpness and depth of field DOF to keep the image size large, you shouldn’t open the diaphragm too wide no more than f/5.6 , and don’t try to set it too tight to avoid diffraction. To increase the depth of field, close the aperture down to no more than f/11 for wide-angle lenses and f/16 for telephoto lenses. Of course, sometimes you have to use other aperture values. It can’t be helped, fireworks are an extreme.

Shutter speed slower than 2.5 sec won’t give you a pretty fireworks picture. And a shutter speed shorter than 2 would give a nice-looking picture at f/5, 5-5 .I set 5 sec only for very bright times white nights in nice weather . Sometimes, in dark seasons, a shutter speed of 8 sec is appropriate if the volleys are frequent enough, then several series of volleys will be in the same frame . However, too long shutter speeds can ruin the whole result, because wasting a lot of time on one shot will only get the last bursts bright in the frame, and the first bursts will become pale and with very thin tracks. Also, the risk of overexposure increases if the fireworks are white or gold in color or if there are many of them at the same time. It is better to get a few good shots in the meantime.

Most often the fireworks are best shot with a shutter speed of 4-6 seconds.

A second, very good option is to take a picture with a shutter speed by hand bulb . This mode allows you to keep the shutter open as long as you keep the shutter button pressed. Open the shutter when the salvo is about to explode and close it as soon as the “bouquet” is fully bloomed.

Typically the best shutter speed for fireworks is ISO 100. But when a theatrical show starts, for example, when a sailboat with scarlet sails comes out, you have to set the shutter speed no longer than 1/100 the sailboat is fast and add light with a more open aperture and higher ISO this already depends on the weather and whether there are fireworks or only laser illumination . On a good white night, ISO: 1600-2000 is enough, but in bad weather I had to set the ISO to 3500-4000.

Camera: Nikon D750

Lens: AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR

Aperture: f/5

Shutter speed: 1/100

ISO: 1600

Focal length: 78 mm

Composite photos to create spectacular shots

Sometimes the fireworks are not too rich, the volleys are solitary and not too wide. Sometimes the fireworks are so high that the architectural dominant feature you took in the frame becomes too small in comparison, and the fireworks don’t come into the frame when you zoom in on it. Sometimes you want to include a fast moving object in the composition shutter speed 1/100 sec and along with it fireworks with long tracks shutter speed 5-6 sec . In such cases, you need to take care of frames from which you can make composite photos at home, when processing the shot.

Here is a photo in which 5 shots are combined: 1 background with an enlarged Peter and Paul Fortress and 4 shots with fireworks. These are all taken without changing the tripod and camera position. But the background shot without the volley is taken with a longer focal length:

Camera: Nikon D750

Lens: AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR

Aperture: f/11

Shutter speed: 5

ISO: 100

Focal length: 85 mm

And the shots with the volleys were taken at FTR: 40 mm.

Then in Adobe Photoshop CS6 layers with fireworks are superimposed one by one on the background frame select: ctrlA, copy: ctrlC and paste into the background: ctrlV in the blending mode “Replace with Light”. You can move the layers and remove unnecessary things with masks. Perform further processing after combining layers.

A similar approach is used when the sailboat background photo is shot with fast shutter speed and the fireworks show with slow shutter speed and other exposure settings were changed accordingly .

Camera: Nikon D750

Lens: AF-S NIKKOR 16-35mm f/4G ED VR

Aperture: f/3.5 for salvo: f/14

Shutter speed: 1/100 for the salute: 5

ISO: 1600 for the volley: 100

Focal length: 32mm

Other important points when shooting fireworks

If you brought a backup camera with you, sometimes pay attention to the spectators with its lens. You can get very interesting shots.

Also, the photographer must be a very charming person. Firstly, it’s always good, and secondly, when you shoot fireworks, you are among a huge number of spectators, whom you disturb a lot by taking a place in the front row, by guarding too much space for your tripods and equipment, by twirling not only yourself, but, again, by twirling your photo equipment, changing lenses… But the audience at the party will stop nagging you and pushing you, and even begin to guard your space for you, if you can correctly, kindly and with a smile explain to others the importance of your actions.”.

Dmitry Burlak

I shoot mostly reportage. Including on holidays. Large celebrations usually end with fireworks, and such a colorful conclusion to an event must of course be captured. For me personally, each time is a new and interesting challenge. I’ll try to tell you a little bit about how I solve it.

Often shot in crowds, especially at city parties. So I try to choose a place to put my tripod and stand on my own or find a foothold to put the camera on or just to lean on. I usually choose elevated places or places near fences, again, on big holidays. Always keep in mind how good the view of blooming flowers of fire in the sky will be.

Camera: Nikon D7000

Lens: AF NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8D

Aperture: f/2.8

Shutter speed: 1/5

ISO: 200

Focal length: 50 mm

Shooting fireworks puts two restrictions on the lens choice. First is the focal length and therefore the angle of view. Second is the aperture value. That’s why I prefer light “fixes. Specifically, AF NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8D the D7000 has a “screwdriver” so the lens doesn’t have its own autofocus motor and AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G.

Camera: Nikon D3100

Lens: AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G

Aperture: f/2.2

Shutter speed: 1/40

ISO: 200

Focal length: 35mm

Automation in changing light conditions is hardly a good helper. Let’s set the manual mode, set the approximate parameters and don’t forget to correct them if necessary. Be sure to take the subject into account:

Camera: Nikon D3100

Lens: AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G

Aperture: f/2.2

Shutter speed: 1/60

ISO: 400

Focal length: 35mm

The wind often spoils the image by blowing away the burning elements, which leave jagged stripes in the images at slow shutter speeds. But sometimes, if the position is chosen well, the wind can be a way to make the shot more beautiful:

Camera: Nikon D7000

Lens: AF NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8D

Aperture: f/2.8

Shutter speed: 2.5

ISO: 200

Focal length: 50mm

There’s a lot to say about the processing: some use it intensively, some don’t. I am one of the first. I don’t think you should underestimate the role of processing in shooting fireworks. Usually fire tracers are overexposed and therefore have a less saturated color. Fixing in Lightroom.

Camera: Nikon D7000

Lens: AF NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8D

Aperture: f/2.8

Shutter speed: 1/4

ISO: 100

Focal length: 50mm

Kristina Kurashova

My love of photography goes back to my childhood. Of course I didn’t have any professional equipment and I didn’t really know how it worked, but I tried to take pictures beautifully, and it was rare, because usually the zoom and the light sensitivity of the old point-and-shoot cameras didn’t let me do it the way I wanted to. As I grew older, I found my surroundings: I had a lot of photographer friends, I was invited to shoot with. Creativity never leaves the man: on the set, we talked a lot about photography and processing.

At the MC they told a complete plan of action for the shoot, and I unconsciously absorbed the information. Then I wanted to try shooting again, so I bought a Nikon D700 which I still use to this day, and I was hooked. Every year I like to shoot new life scenes, learn new things and update my lens collection. Challenging shoots don’t scare me, on the contrary, I take them with great interest. It’s inspiring to run into something you’ve never shot before and find your way around it.

Fireworks are always beautiful! I am sure every photographer would like to capture it on his or her camera. Actually, there aren’t any particularly complicated tricks here! You just have to follow the rules and you’re sure to succeed.

Of course it is better to go to the place beforehand, if there are already spectators, you can ask them from which side the fireworks will be, so you won’t make a mistake. Choose your point and plan your composition. It is better to shoot with a wide angle lens.

Camera: Nikon D700

Lens: AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4G

Aperture: f/11

Shutter speed: 2.5

ISO: 100

Focal length: 50mm

First rule – tripod. A tripod is a must, because fireworks are shot at slow shutter speeds, and unfortunately you won’t get anything without one. 
 If you don’t often take pictures at night at slow shutter speeds you’re better off with a self timer, a remote or a cable. This way you can prevent any camera shake at all and get the clearest picture possible.

Camera: Nikon D700

Lens: AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4G

Aperture: f/10

Shutter speed: 2

ISO: 100

Focal Length: 50mm

Second is the shutter speed! It’s what draws the tails of the fireworks in the frame. It is a good idea to shoot fireworks manually with the bulb feature. But if you’re shooting without a remote and a cable, it’s better to set a shutter speed of 1 to 3 seconds.

To take a good-looking picture, take the shot when the shell hits the sky and the second shutter release, when the fireworks begin to fall down, then you will capture all the beauty of the fireworks.

The third thing is the aperture. It’s better to shoot in the range of f/8-16. It is better to be guided by the values of the technique you are shooting with and choose medium aperture values – this will give the clearest backgrounds.


And the last thing you need is ISO. Set it to 100 or the minimum value for your camera. This setting on any camera gives you minimal color noise.

Camera: Nikon D700

Lens: AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4G

Aperture: f/10

Exposure: 2

ISO: 100

Focal length: 50 mm


A little tip for your masterpiece – stand upwind, then the smoke from the explosions will be blown away from you! 
Now you’re ready to shoot fireworks!”

Pavel Miroshkin

I am a journalism student at Volgograd State University and a photographer for a Volgograd Internet media. I’ve been a photographer for three years now, shooting for local news portals and publics, and just for fun. My favorite genres are reportage, nature and cityscapes, and street staged portraits.

I work with Nikon equipment not so long ago – about a year. I chose the Nikon D750 for my purchase, which I was pleased with its excellent specifications, compact size and the presence of a pivoting screen, which is very helpful for reportage photography. I often shoot a lot of city festivities that usually culminate in a colorful fireworks display. And in order to shoot it successfully you should always follow some simple tips:

Prepare in advance for the shoot

Before going out for colorful shots of fireworks or fireworks, find out where the shots will come from so you can get the best location for the shot. Arrive at least 30 minutes beforehand in order to have enough time to prepare.Also make sure you compose your photo before the fireworks start and if possible include a reflective surface in the composition such as a pond. City lights and fireworks will be reflected in the water, making your shot look great.

Camera: Nikon D750

Lens: AF-S NIKKOR 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G ED VR

Aperture: f/11

Shutter speed: 3.6

ISO: 800

Focal length: 85mm

Use a tripod

You always shoot fireworks with slow shutter speeds, so make sure you have a tripod to securely block your camera from blurring.

Remote shutter release

You’ll also need a remote shutter release or a smartphone with WirelessMibileUnity software installed on it if your camera has Wi-FI or bluetooth modules . This app lets you remotely control your camera directly from your smartphone or tablet. I myself use WirelessMibileUnity because it is the most handy wireless option and it allows instant sharing directly to my smartphone and on social media. By the way, you can download the app from Google play and AppStore.

Camera: Nikon D750

Lens: AF-S NIKKOR 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G ED VR

Aperture: f/14

Shutter speed: 5

ISO: 400

Focal length: 32mm

Shoot in bulb mode

The most important parameter when shooting fireworks is the shutter speed. That’s what determines the final pattern of the fireworks. For best results, open the shutter immediately after the sound of the salvo, and close it after the fireworks have unfolded. In practice it takes 3-6 seconds of shutter speed, but no more, because you might end up with an overexposed picture. To prevent objects other than the fireworks from being undetailed, you should choose an aperture between f/9 and f/16 and set the ISO depending on the general lighting level of the landscape you’re going to be shooting fireworks in.

Camera: Nikon D750

Lens: AF-S NIKKOR 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G ED VR

Aperture: f/16

Shutter speed: 3

ISO: 400

85mm focal length

Turn off autofocus

Autofocus is very likely to misfire in this kind of shooting and you lose precious footage. So be sure to switch your camera to manual focus mode and focus on the place where the volleys will be fired from. You should also disable lens stabilization if available .

Camera: Nikon D750

Lens: AF-S NIKKOR 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G ED VR

Aperture: f/11

Excerpt: 4.6

ISO: 800

Focal length: 85mm

Use RAW format

Taking pictures of fireworks is one of the most difficult scenes to light. There’s a good chance the shot will be unevenly exposed. That’s why you should shoot in RAW format, which holds more information than Jpeg and gives the best result in processing.